This year, we offered a special chance to our wholesale partners: by donating to our forest project in Brazil, they could join us to see the effect of their contribution up close. Based in Barcelona, Ruma’s Specialty Coffee has been highlighting the incredible flavour of single origin beans for many years: with a dedication to quality and sustainability, Ruma is a true pioneer of the local scene. Having donated an incredible 500 trees during Earth Month 2024, we wanted her to join us in Brazil to plant one of them herself.
So, in August, Ruma and our Head Roaster Germán touched down in Brazil to begin their journey across the country: to visit our forest, connect with some of our closest partners across the country, and taste some of their latest crops.
Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza - FAF
Travelling from São Paulo, Ruma and Germán were heading to their first stop: Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza, or FAF. For the next few days, FAF would be their base to explore a region where we source some of our favourite Brazilian coffees. In family hands since 1850, it was not until 2001 that Silvia Barretto decided to move away from conventional farming methods. With her husband Marcos, Silvia began to transform the farm, naming it Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza, or Environmental Fortress Farm. They were driven to convert the farm into a sustainable business, with consideration for the environment and the relationships between people while producing high quality products. The transition to organic drastically reduced production as the plants suffered from the abrupt termination of chemicals. Now, over to Ruma for her reflections on the trip!
“Having arrived at FAF, we began the first day with a visit to their coffee plantations, riding in the back of an open truck and admiring the fields and surroundings as we drove. Stopping amongst the farms, we heard how FAF cares for the trees naturally, avoiding pesticides and relying on natural rainfall. They plant trees between the rows to help retain moisture and cover the plants with banana leaves and peels. We were also shown the FAF garden, where they grow produce for the guests. FAF is not just about coffee: it is also a guesthouse and producer of cheese and honey from their own bees.”
A Sustainable Vision
“During the four days at the FAF guesthouse, we were accompanied by Silvia. She struck me as an incredibly energetic and remarkable woman who loves her work and takes care of all the guests. Touring the fields, we learned about the challenges of organic farming. FAF’s commitment to environmentally friendly coffee growing and supporting local farmers was inspiring. I continued touring the fields, where they gave us excursions and explained the challenges of combating pests and bacteria organically, especially during droughts. They experiment with planting trees between the rows to create shade for the coffee plants and retain moisture. FAF adheres to the principles of environmentally friendly coffee growing, avoiding pesticides and chemicals. They believe in their mission and support local farmers, helping them better understand the coffee they grow.”
"During our second day at FAF, we were joined by Rafa, who supports producers with a mobile coffee lab. He travels to farms, roasts coffee on-site so that farmers can evaluate its quality and learn how to improve it. This approach allows them to influence the quality of the coffee before the entire harvest is collected. We tasted coffee at the farm of Ivan Dos Santos. Ivan is one of the farmers whose coffee I’ve sold in my cafe: it’s always a favourite! It was amazing to meet the person behind the coffee we serve and to get to know his delightful daughter, who, despite being only 6 years old, already loves helping on the plantation and tasting coffee."
Building A Community
"Today, we travelled to Divinolândia, the highest-altitude area of Brazilian coffee plantations, to meet Adonis of Fazenda da Mata. With decades of experience, Adonis knows more about growing specialty coffee than anyone else. Working with FAF, Adonis has been able to focus on sustainability and quality across his farm. This lean, strong, and energetic grandfather experiments with various high-altitude varietals and his estate was the most beautiful I’ve seen, with incredible views of the surrounding landscape.
I was amazed to learn that the entire harvest is collected by hand, as machines cannot operate on the mountainous terrain. People collect the beans by hand, placing them in sacks - a gruelling task in the heat. The coffee is then sundried, which makes it even more valuable. Although he has no plans to retire yet, we met the granddaughter of Adonis, who at 20 years old is already starting to work on the plantation and follow in the footsteps of her grandfather. Sharing the flavour of Fazenda Da Mata with our coffee community in Barcelona has always been a pleasure and it was a privilege to see the passionate work behind it."
Having explored the beautiful coffee farms of São Paulo State, it was time to leave FAF. After a huge thank you for the hospitality from Silvia and all the FAF producers, Ruma and Germán were on the road again. Next stop: Daterra and our forest project in Minas Gerais! Stay tuned for our next blog and more from Ruma’s travel diary. Until then, click below and discover the wonderful Brazilian coffees in our portfolio.
